How to Setup 3D Printer Nozzle Height Calibration? | Guide

Introduction to the topic

It’s not a difficult task to make your bed level, I’ve done it many times, but it is definitely a tedious business to do well. I’m sure many of you have had trouble calibrating or leveling your 3D printer bed and so you’ll get this article right. But bt reading this guide, you will be able to know,

The best way to level your bed is to run a big object test print and adjust your bed’s corners when the material is extracted. This method is efficient because it takes place in real-time and does not need to move the bed or head manually.

You cannot never get a fully equipped bed, but you can get it as perfect for printing successfully as you need.

Why you should do 3d nozzle height calibration?

Desktop 3D printer (FFF/FDM) users can often encounter various types of problems, including poor filament, inadequate printing parameters, poor conditions for 3D printers’ location (such as humid environments, cold or drafts), poor maintenance and a 3D printer calibration.

One of the most important elements to calibrate is the base or bed of a 3D printer, as you won’t have good print results if it is not leveled well.

Depending on the 3D printer model, this calibration process can be performed as follows:

Helped by car leveling

Some 3D printers have this system, which consists of adjusting its height by turning the screws of the base and using the aid lines, which are fitted with a 3D printer and turn red into green at the right height.

Compensatory leveling

Initial measurement of distance between the extruder and the base by points is made by the 3D printer.

The z axis varies then when the print is printed, in the same layer in order to maintain a constant distance between the extruder and the base.

Manual leveling

Adjust the bed leveling by turning the bed screws.

This is because the leveling of one side can change another because we level or calibrate our printer bed twice. Twice as high as possible, your bed is ready for a successful first layer and will take account of this change.

It is a good idea to also inspect the middle of the printed bed with the same piece of paper beneath the pin after twice leveling.

Leveling the corners should mean the middle should provide the same room for the paper as long as your bed has not been twisted.

The middle of your bed, for your nozzle, is the most important thing. Most prints you make will use the center section, so the corners will not be so important unless you have large prints.

You can adjust every corner slightly equally so that the middle with the paper under the nozzle is correctly leveled. That could work some time, but you will probably not be successful in first layers if your bed gets more warping.

This can save the day by entering a beautiful stuff called automatic leveling.

How to calibrate 3d printer nozzle height?

Step 1: Getting ready

If you have a glass basis in your 3D printer, you should wash the base well to avoid possible problem in leveling it with a fixing sprays (e.g. Magigoo, 3DLac or DimaFix). Any remaining filaments hanging from the bubble are also vital, otherwise we would have a sediment measuring error.

On the other hand, the controls of the foundation must be positioned at the midpoint of its journey. In addition, in order to prevent potential contacts or even breakage of the glass or 3D print support, the z-axis limit switch should be moved and the distance between the base and the extruder incremented.

Attach the printed panel to the supplied screws. Ensure that x-end idler mounting and x-end motor mounting is at the same height. Both ends can be measured with a height measurement or an angle L. You can rotate the threaded rod in a z-axis to bring it to the same level if it isn’t in equal height.

Check the distance between your nozzle and the print plate, folding a piece of paper in two and using this as a distance measuring distance between the nozzle and the print plate. The print plate is 0.2mm thick – 0,4mm nozzle.

Step 2: Setting of the X-axis

This anchor (where the extruder is moving) should be adjusted so that there are no changes in height between the extruder and the base when the extruder moves. To start, the height on either side is the same, and measurements should take place from a point in the Z-axis to a 3D printing point.

To equalize the engine, the motor is turned manually on the right side, holding the other side in order not to rotate. If we don’t do this, it would generate electricity and turn the other because the z axis motors are parallel connected to one axis rotating.

Step 3: Measuring value for Y-axis

That’s pretty much like what we did before. The only real difference is to find another place to tap into the Y axis. Your X, Y&Z axis first home. Then move the X axis to the outermost portion of your printer arm (picture1).

Place a piece of tape on the Y-axis above an X-axis point (picture 2). Say to moving the Y-axis Repetier 70 mm. Now mark it with a tape and measure the real distance between them (picture3). That’s not long enough, I have 69.8 mm. We can now solve our new M92 value with both of these measurements and our current M92 value for Y.

Step 4: Measuring value of Z-axis

We will use a ruler rather than use digital calipers for the Z axis. Your XY&Z axis first home. Place your ruler next to the printer perpendicular to your printer. Take note of the point of your printer, so move your eye level with the printer (I like to use the tallest part of the printer’s arm). Make sure that the eye is level with the measurement when you take your measurements.

I was 17.7cm tall. Now say that you raise 100mm on your printer. See how far you actually have moved your printer. Around 27.75cm, the mine has moved. We get 10.05cm or 100.5mm by subtracting the second measurement (27.75-17.7cm) from the first.

Step 5: The Z axis limit changer is adjusted

For this step, 3D printing programs like Cura3d or Pronterface that have a wizard to do “home” in z or directly to a basic leveling section will be used, if a 3D printer does not have assisted leveling. The program moves the z-axis and manually adjusts the limit switch to the extruder tip.

Bring the axis X, Y, and Z home, then move the Y-axis to print the nozzle. Test and adjust if necessary, the distance between the nozzle and print plate. (a 0.2 mm distance) Move the height of the Z-axis 10mm and bring the Z-axis to the left side of the printable plaque (1) corner by clicking Z-axis.

Step 6: The angle of the base adjustment

The outlet diameter of the nozzle should be considered in this step. The perfect height is always half the output diameter. This means that if the 3D printer is 0.6 mm tube, the optimal height is 0.3 mm. A gage of that thickness or its absence is used for the correctness of this distance, and as the majority of 3D printers use a 0.4 mm buckle, an approximate thickness of 80 g sheet of 0,2 mm.

Insert the panel between the extruder tip and the base and bring the z axis down to “home.” If the sheet is not totally free or sensitized, but when rubbing the sheet with a dust is noticeable, the height will be correct.

What happens if your 3d printer nozzle height is not calibrated correctly?

There are multiple risks that can cause trouble if your 3d printer nozzle height is not calibrated correctly:

If the bed is too close to your nozzle

If you have thin extruded lines that scrape the bed surface, you know the bottle is too close to the bed. That’s why the idea to start printing with a few skirts is good.

It offers you the chance to level your print bed while it is.

You may also hear your external click or go, which is the case when there is a reverse filament pressure in the Bowden tube. You know your nozzle is too close to the bed when material is unable to be extrude completely and your printer has an expected flow rate.

If the nozzle is too high from bed

Either you see your filament curling and not laying around the nozzle, or your filament will not stick sufficiently well to the bed and be moveable.

You only want to raise your print bed if this happens, until the bed is sufficiently distant from the bowl to touch the bed firmly.

Your filament will not be placed firmly on the printed bed; it has to have a lot of contact in fact to keep on the bed. If the material is extruded, you can test how well it is attached to the bed by brushing the printed layer very lightly.

If you can move the layer easily, you know it is not well stuck, so the bed must be lifted.

Damaged surface

Sometimes it just doesn’t make the trick to level the bed manually. Usually it’s too much or even a damaged surface down to your bed. In this case, you have some options for solving this issue.

Either you can automatically level the bed, have a substitute bed surface, or try to fix the problem.

A third-party printer uses sticky notes to raise the bed height and places a certain number of them under the bed surface. Surprisingly, it actually worked to level the bed so that this is a great affordable solution to make smooth prints again.

This could not always work out, so it could be your savior to take the BL-Touch (Amazon) or get a fresh glass bed.

Watch How to Set your Nozzle Height and Level your Bed [Video]

Top 5 FAQs & Answers related to 3d printer nozzle height calibration

Summary

When we use a 3D printer to get a successful print, we have different things to consider. An important part of this is a level printed bed, since it can extrude the material evenly across the entire construction area.

We have to adjust the height of the Z after leveling the print bed. In order to balance filament flow and bed adhesion, this is done first manually. We then set the software to know what the gap between the nozzle and the plate is.

We both need a level construction of the surface and a correct divide for the first layer. Then for the rest of our 3D printing job we have the perfect basis.

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