What is meant by PLA warping on heat bed?

How different printing materials are affected is extremely important to be considered. PLA does not need a heated bed, for example. However, it can help those first few layers stay a bit more consistently when printed on one at approximately 50 C.

If you get 3D PLA warp, however, a heated bed temperature (e.g. over 60C) is likely to lead to warping. This may be too high. PLA thumb rule warp on a heated bed – it’s probably too hot to print.

Whereas when you get the heated bed with 3D printer ABS, the big blame is probably that the heated bed just doesn’t get warm enough. Turn it up usually.

Heated print beds have once been relatively uncommon. This led to a tendency to cool printed objects very soon after a job was completed. This resulted in high lateral stress and ABS curling.

Many people today print on a printed bed that is heated. This leads to a printed item cooling down much slower. This reduces the stress due to contraction that helps to decrease disturbances.

Heated beds are not a one-stop warping solution, but they reduce the chances that your item will warp when used in conjunction with other preventives.

Why PLA warping occurs on heated bed?


1. Plastic expands

Warping is caused by the shrinking material during 3D printing, which lifts and separates the corners of the print from the platform. When plastic is printed, it expands somewhat, but cools down.

This causes the print to bend up from the building Plate if the material contracts too much. There is a greater likelihood of warping when used in certain materials (e.g. PC has greater retrenchment than PLA).A problem with 3D printer warping usually occurs when an object after printing cools unfairly.

2. Higher stress

As you know, cooling causes contraction, causing stress on the lateral surfaces of the object. The faster the cooling takes place, the higher the stress.

This stress is most important at the corners that meet on two sides. The stress of tugging on the two sides deforms and pulls up and into the corner of the object. The result doesn’t please the eye and makes the object usually unusable.

Your bed will probably be too hot. The main reason is almost certainly when the object is also warped off the bed. With an overheated bed you can also compress the lower layers by using heavier prints, which cause them to slow down and flow to the outside.

If your dust is too close to a heated bed, a lesser version of this may be caused. In some cases, if not corrected, it can considerably exacerbate the other two factors.

3. First layer adhesion

There is nothing wrong with putting the first layer down on a bed at 55 – 60 ° C in certain beds, like PR4 or PEI, as long as all subsequent layers reduce it to 45 °C. There is a good deal of risk that the initial bed adhesion with the PLA will be guaranteed.

Warping is a common problem, when your printed material’s edges are cooling at a different rate from the rest of the material. If a hot, extended material is extruded into a cold, contract material, the material will become stressed once the new layer has cooled down.The cooled plastic therefore warps up and changes the appearance of the print.

4. Construction plate

In the first 3D layer of a print, the problem of warping is most obvious. The first layer of a printer is on what is called the construction plate or platform, without prior layers to be slicked on. When the filament material leaves the printer’s extruder and is placed on the platform, it begins to cool down.

The trouble is that the finished layer does not cool down evenly: the outer borders cool down and contract more quickly than the inner portion because they are exposed to a colder environment.Although distortion seldom affects the integrity of the 3D print, the print is not good at all.

5. The FDM 3D printing

 Filaments generally include thermoplastics, a material which changes its properties in certain temperature ranges. We heat the filament in 3D printing to somewhere outside its melting point so that it can be extruded into a construction plate in its liquid form.

Thermoplastics expand and shrink when they refresh themselves during heating and come back to a solid.This transformation causes a certain amount of motion in extruded plastics that is the root cause of 3D imprinting: colder layers pull hotter layers as they contract. And if the hotter layers are underneath the colder layers, the 3D printed object has to release its grip on the building surface and curl upwards.

How to prevent PLA warping?


It is much easier for us to come up with the best solutions by understanding why warping occurs. You are in a much easier situation when you work with PLA than most, for PLA is one of the materials less likely to warp.

Following are some of the techniques you can use to prevent warping, from simple to most complex, in your PLA print. Note that not all PLA filament is produced in equal measure and higher tendency for lower quality versions is possible. If a method doesn’t work for you, try to add the next method until your search results are reached.

1. Use a rounded edge design

Experts in 3D printing know that it is more marked at the print corners when warping takes place. This is because the stress at the edges accumulates due to the unequal contraction of the material. In addition, from at least two directions, every corner bears the brunt of stress.

To this end, a creative solution developed by 3D printers is to use designs with rounded corners rather than cornered edges. The stress that the corners usually sustain can be distributed more evenly along the edges of the print with a rounded edge.

2. Use an adhesive building surface

This is probably the most important step you can take to avoid distortion of your printed objects. The majority of printers have a durable but far too smooth surface made of glass or aluminum.

One important aspect when you work out how to prevent ABS warping is to sort your bed adhesion perfectly.

When they find smooth surfaces, extruded thermoplastic have nothing to grab. This leads to more pronounced warping caused by cooling. The way to start the construction process is to improve adherence to surfaces. To achieve that, there are a number of things you can try. Both the painter tape and Kapton tape function well to reduce the distortion in both PLA and ABS.

Many use Hairspray directly on the structure surface to increase tactile, but it is confusing and has a limited durability.

3. Temperature control

Temperature is perhaps the most important factor to avoid distortion, not only of the filament, but of the bed and the surrounding air. Here are some tips to keep the temperature conditions optimal:

Use a heated bed: This makes the temperature in the model even better. A heated construction panel helps to adhere to the bed. The recommended bed temperature is usually determined by the filament manufacturer.

Use an enclosed printing chamber: this helps keep the environmental temperature constant throughout the process of printing. Check out our article on how to build your own, if your printer does no enclosure.

4. Change the initial layer configuration

The initial level height and the initial layer speed are two important settings (relating to the first level) that influence adhesion. In most cases, a thicker first layer facilitates adhesion because it is not as critical to calibrate the plate.

5. Check the coordinates of your startup

Sometimes it is key to achieve a successful result to print a good first layer. One way to increase the chance of a decent first layer is by checking before printing your starting Z coordinates.

If the Z-axis begins too high, extruded printing materials can travel a longer distance before they reach the building surface.

The longer the distance the material has to go, the cooler the material is, and the bigger the odds of it not sticking correctly.

What are the effects of PLA warping on heated bed?


I have read PLA and heat-bed different stuff. Some say that this is not necessary, others advise 60-70°C, but not for first layers.

I often have the problems for larger objects that the object does not stick to the aluminum printing plate covered with blue paint. The “curls” print on one or more edges instead. I use a 5 to 10mm border to reduce this effect. The border works quite well depending on the size of the object. Will heating the bed also improve the quality of printing by reducing heat warping / curling?

If 3D printed objects are cooled down uncontrolled out of PLA*, ABS* or PETG*, they could curl on the printer bed. The consequence is a lower layer which is twisted. If you start a larger print model, the first layers of the object adhere successfully to a printer sheet and, while printing, curled spots are shown, or other deformations.

This tension can be so high that part of the print object can be removed from the printed bed. This produces a completely defective print. This can be seen, especially if you use highly temperature materials such as ABS to print very larger or very long pieces.

This is mainly due to the fact that plastic tends to decrease during cooling. For example, it is expected to shrink by nearly 1.5% when you print an object with an ABS at a temperature of 230° Celsius and allow the object to cool at normal room temperature.

This could mean a loss of several millimeters for particularly large print models. Each layer shrinks a little more when the model is printed so that the complete object ends up turning and coming off the bed.

The least distortion would not be possible if the entire 3D print model could be maintained at exactly the same temperature during the printing. This is virtually impossible in practice, however. You can try to maintain the model’s temperature as evenly as possible, so that the layers stick together to prevent the entire item from leaving the printable bed.

Watch Fixing PLA warping on a 3D printer [Video Guide]

Top 5 FAQs & answer related to PLA warping on heat bed

Do you want to use a heated PLA bed?

It is easy to print PLA without a heated bed. However, we recommend a heated bed between 40-50C for the first-layer adhesion. You don’t need a heated bed to print it because it is low warp, but you might want to use one since it can facilitate adhesion in the first few layers.

 How can PLA warping be fixed?

Fitting to the platform
· Use a heated platform for the construction. A heated construction panel is the best way to avoid warping.
· Make sure the plate is properly lifted.
· Apply a sticker.
· Wear a border.
· Use rafting.
· Adjust the settings for the initial layer.
· Use the fan configuration correctly.
· Wear a door on the front.

What is PLA’s best bed temperature?

The PLA bed temperature is recommended at 65°C.
Like any bed material it is extremely important to print on glass with your bed level and extruder in the right height.
If you don’t stick your first layer.

Do you have to use a heated PLA bed?

It is easy to print PLA without a heated bed. However, we recommend a heated bed between 40-50C for the first-layer adhesion. You don’t need a heated bed to print it because it is low warp, but you might want to use one since it can facilitate adhesion in the first few layers.

Does PLA require a fan to cool?

Optimize the cooling parameters
Refrigeration is one of the main aspects of PLA printing. The quality of the printed parts is very different with a dedicated part cooling fan. The newly extruded plastic needs to refresh as quickly as possible beneath the glass transition temperature.



It is not as easy to make high quality 3D prints as to purchase a 3D printer, to load it with your preferred filament and to print the model you have found online. Many things can go wrong and it involves a delicate balance and a thorough understanding as to how the filament material reacts to temperature changes.

Warping, in particular when working with new filament materials, is one of the most common issues facing 3D printers. What can you do to avoid distortion? In this article, you will learn all about techniques to prevent warping when printing PLA.

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